Spring flowering
The Complete Autumn Bulb Guide
Planting & Growing Autumn Bulbs
Bulbs are about the easiest, most rewarding thing you can plant. Almost every bulb arrives with next spring’s flower already formed inside it and the energy it needs to bloom, so the first year’s display is as close to a sure thing as gardening gets. In fact we guarantee it: every bulb we sell is guaranteed to flower in its first year, or we will replace it or refund you. Below is everything we have learned about getting the best from them over more than 160 years and 70 Chelsea Gold Medals. Search, or pick a category to explore, and if you cannot find your answer do call us on 01234 709099.
Getting Started — the basics of planting & growing bulbs
A bulb is a complete, self contained package, with next spring’s flower already formed inside and its own food in store, so the hard work is, in truth, already done for you. There is very little that can go wrong, and that first year’s flowering is guaranteed; it is why bulbs are the most forgiving and rewarding thing in the garden, asking so little and giving so much.
When should I plant autumn bulbs?
Happily there is plenty of leeway. Plant daffodils, hyacinths, crocus, alliums, muscari and most of the smaller bulbs anytime from September through October, while the soil is still workable, so the roots can settle before winter. Tulips are the exception and are best left until November. Autumn-flowering bulbs such as colchicum and nerine simply want to go in as soon as they arrive. Miss the ideal window and all is not lost; a bulb planted late will still flower.
How do I prepare the soil?
Light digging to a depth of 10 to 15cm over the coming weeks is all most borders need. Work in any organic matter from your compost heap at the same time to loosen the soil and raise oxygen levels, then ideally leave it a few weeks before planting. Good drainage and aeration are everything, for nothing grows without oxygen.
How deep should I plant my bulbs?
As a rule of thumb, plant at two to three times the height of the bulb, pointed end up. Go a little shallower in heavy soil and a little deeper in light, sandy soil. Bulbs are clever and will gradually pull themselves to their preferred level over the years.
What is the right planting technique?
All you need is a fork, a spade, a trowel and a bag of bone meal. A few things to bear in mind:
- Use a trowel for small clumps, a spade for larger areas, and lightly fork the soil first.
- Avoid leaving a cone shape at the bottom of the hole; bulbs hate sitting in a pocket of water.
- On heavy soil, sit each bulb on a little grit, with no air gap beneath the basal plate.
- Do not push the bulb in too firmly, as this damages the root tips on the base.
- Mix some compost into the soil you put back, and give a top dressing of bone meal.
- Lightly rake the surface afterwards to prevent a crust forming, known as soil capping.
Can I grow bulbs in pots and containers?
Yes, and often better than in the ground, because pots let you control the soil, watering and position. The single most important thing is to keep the compost evenly moist through autumn and spring without ever soaking it. If a pot dries out in autumn the roots never develop, and the flower then shrivels in spring. The bigger the pot, the easier it all becomes.
What compost and soil mix should I use?
Use fresh compost that is moisture retentive, free draining and friable. A soil based mix such as John Innes No2 with a little horticultural grit suits most bulbs. Dampen it before planting, as it is very hard to wet properly afterwards. For bulbs grown indoors use bulb fibre, which is more open and usually contains charcoal to keep it sweet.
Do I need to feed my bulbs?
Not in the first year, and not at planting. The flower and all the food it needs are already inside the bulb, so there is nothing you need to add for a fine first display. Feeding only really matters if you are keeping bulbs for future years, in which case a feed after flowering, while the foliage is still green, builds next year’s bulb. Avoid anything high in nitrogen, which only produces lank leaves.
How do I design a bulb border?
Plant in drifts or clumps rather than stiff rows, marking your areas with lines of sand to keep to the plan. As a rule the taller varieties go to the back, graduating to the shorter at the front, but do not be too rigid; a few taller plants brought forward draw the eye and add depth. Plant the inexpensive bulbs in large drifts to complement their costlier hybrid cousins. And do not feel confined to the sunniest borders: many bulbs are perfectly happy in the partial shade of trees and in cooler, north-facing spots where little else will thrive.
How do I keep squirrels and mice off my bulbs?
A scatter of chilli powder over the planting area is a fine and harmless deterrent. Planting a touch deeper helps, as does firming and lightly raking the soil level so it does not look freshly dug. Pots are best kept somewhere sheltered until growth appears.
My bulbs made leaves but no flowers. Why?
This is rare, and almost never happens in the first year, since the flower is already formed inside the bulb when you plant it. If it does occur later on, it is usually because a pot was allowed to dry out completely, or a clump has grown congested over the years and simply needs lifting and dividing to flower freely again. Our bulbs are guaranteed to flower the first year, so if one ever lets you down, just tell us.
How should I store bulbs before planting?
Order early, even if you are not ready to plant. Kept somewhere cool, dry and airy, your bulbs will be perfectly happy to wait. Most arrive in nets, which store easily; open any bagged smaller bulbs on arrival to let the air circulate. Be wary of bulbs from warm high street displays, which deteriorate with heat and handling.
Tulips
Tulips are the standout of the spring garden, offering a range of colour and brilliance no other flower can match. Be bold, and always plant more than you think you need. They fall into fifteen classified divisions, and understanding them is the key to a display that runs from March right through to the end of May. The early divisions open first and are usually shorter; the mid-season Triumphs and Darwin Hybrids are the dependable backbone; and the late divisions are the tall, theatrical finale. Although tulips are often said to demand full sun, most flower perfectly well in partial shade, and the species kinds are happy even in light woodland; shade simply tends to make them flower a little later and last a little longer.
Plant
Nov to Dec, after frosts
Flowers
March to May
Depth & spacing
10cm heavy soil, 15cm light; 10–15cm apart
Position
Sun or partial shade
The fifteen types, and when they flower
Single EarlyEarly spring
The first of the larger tulips, on sturdy short stems. Many are sweetly scented and they force beautifully for early pots and windowsills. The Prince Collection is a long-time favourite. Shop Early Singles →
Double EarlyEarly spring
Full, many-petalled flowers like small peonies on short stems. Long lasting and superb in pots and at the front of a border, though the heavy heads appreciate shelter from wind and driving rain. Shop Early Doubles →
Triumph (Mid Season)Mid spring
The largest and most versatile group, the classic tulip shape on strong stems. Weather resistant, in every colour, and the dependable all-rounder for borders and bedding. If you buy one type, make it these. Shop Mid Season tulips →
Darwin HybridMid spring
Big, broad, gloriously coloured flowers on tall, robust stems that shrug off bad weather. The best group for returning year after year, so first choice to leave in the ground. We grow superb Darwins such as Banja Luka. Shop Darwin Hybrids →
Single Late & May FloweringLate spring
Tall, stately tulips that close the season in May, with strong straight stems that make them the finest for cutting. The deepest, richest colours, including the near-blacks, belong here. Shop May Flowering tulips →
Lily FloweredMid to late
Elegant and unmistakable, with slender waisted flowers and pointed petals that flare like a lily. The lily-flowered Ballerina carries a scent of orange blossom, one of the most fragrant of all tulips, and Ballade is another lovely one. Shop Lily Flowered tulips →
Fringed (Crispa)Mid to late
The petal edges are finely cut into a delicate crystalline fringe, as though touched with frost. A wonderful texture in the border and in arrangements. Shop Fringed tulips →
ViridifloraLate spring
Each petal carries a green flame up its centre, giving a long season and a painterly, sophisticated look. Among the longest lasting tulips in the garden. Shop Viridiflora tulips →
ParrotLate spring
The most flamboyant of all, with ruffled, twisted and feathered petals in extravagant colours. Tall and theatrical, so give them a sheltered spot to protect the large heads. Shop Parrot tulips →
Double Late (Paeony Flowered)Late spring
Sumptuous, fully double blooms that genuinely rival peonies. Long lasting and luxurious for pots and cutting, and best given a little shelter. Shop Paeony Flowered tulips →
MultifloweredMid to late
Several blooms from a single bulb, for a generous bouquet effect and exceptional value for impact. Lovely in pots and at the front of a border. Shop Multiflowered tulips →
Fosteriana HybridsEarly spring
The Emperor tulips, with very large, long flowers opening wide in sun on stout stems. Among the earliest of the big tulips and, like the Darwins, some of the better tulips for returning. Shop Fosteriana Hybrids →
Greigii HybridsMid spring
Short and sturdy with beautifully mottled, chocolate-striped foliage that is decorative in itself. Ideal for windswept gardens, the front of borders and pots. Casa Granda is a wonderful, large-flowered example. Shop Greigii Hybrids →
Kaufmanniana HybridsVery early
The waterlily tulips, very early and low growing, their flowers opening flat and star-like in sun, many with marked leaves. Perfect for the rock garden, pots and the front of a border, in sun or light shade. Shop Kaufmanniana Hybrids →
Species (Botanical)Early spring
The wild tulips and their close forms, small, refined and early, the best of all for naturalising, the rock garden and even light woodland shade, where many are perfectly at home. They return reliably for years. The elegant, costly acuminata and clusiana are treasures. Shop Species tulips →
Planting & care
When is the best time to plant tulips?
Later than every other bulb. Wait for the first light frosts, traditionally around the Lord Mayor’s Show in early November, and carry on right up until Christmas in a mild year. The cool soil encourages rooting.
How deep and how far apart should I plant tulips?
In the border, about 10cm (4 inches) deep in heavy soil and 15cm (6 inches) in lighter soil, spacing them roughly 10 to 15cm apart. There is no need to plant as deep as some suggest; tulips will find their own level over time. In pots, around 10cm is ample, with the flat side of each bulb facing outward so the first leaf falls neatly to the outside.
Should I lift my tulips or leave them in the ground?
There is no wrong answer. For small groups in the border I treat them as annuals, planting shallowly so lifting is easy. To keep them, plant a little deeper and give them a dry, sunny aspect over summer. Darwin Hybrids, Fosteriana and the species are the most reliable returners.
What is tulip fire and how do I avoid it?
Honestly, avoiding tulip fire comes down mostly to trusting your supplier and starting with clean, healthy bulbs, which is where our generations of careful selection earn their keep. In the garden, the one real precaution is not to let old tulips rot down into the soil, so lift spent bulbs rather than leaving them to compost in the ground. In pots, simply use fresh compost each year.
Which tulips are best for pots, and which for cutting?
For pots, the shorter divisions shine: Single and Double Early, Greigii, Kaufmanniana and the doubles. For cutting, choose the tall Single Lates and lily-flowered, with their long, strong stems. Both like fresh, soil based compost kept evenly moist.
How do I care for tulips after flowering?
Deadhead spent flowers so energy goes to the bulb, not seed, and let the foliage die back naturally. If lifting, wait until the leaves have yellowed and the new bulb has finished growing, then dry and store somewhere warm so the flower embryo ripens for next year.
Which tulips are scented?
Scent is most common among the early singles, with many species, early doubles, paeony-flowered, parrot, lily-flowered and mid-season tulips also fragrant. The lily-flowered Ballerina, with its orange blossom perfume, is the most celebrated.
Daffodils & Narcissi
Daffodils are among the most quintessentially British of flowers and the most versatile of all spring bulbs. Timed well, with a spread of types, they flower in succession from early February into May. They are almost indestructible, increase year on year, and should last a lifetime. Daffodil and narcissus are simply the common and botanical names for the same plant.
Plant
Sep to Oct, early
Flowers
Feb to May
Depth & spacing
12–15cm over the bulb, 10–15cm apart
Position
Sun or semi-shade
The main types, and how they differ
TrumpetEarly to mid
One flower per stem, the central trumpet as long as, or longer than, the petals. The big, bold, classic daffodil for a focal point. Shop Trumpet daffodils →
Large-cuppedMid spring
One flower per stem with a cup more than a third, but less than the full length, of the petals. The largest and most varied group, with many lovely bicolours and pink-cupped sorts; Altun Ha is a fine one. Plant pink cups in sun to develop their colour. Shop Large Cupped narcissi →
Small-cuppedMid to late
One flower per stem with a short cup no more than a third the petal length. Refined and beautifully contrasted, and excellent for formal planting; Infinity Joy is a charmer. Shop Small Cupped narcissi →
DoubleMid spring
Double flowers with extra petals in the centre, the cup, or both, for a full, ruffled bloom. Sumptuous in the border and for cutting, though the heavy heads benefit from shelter. Shop Double narcissi →
TriandrusMid to late
Several nodding flowers per stem with gently swept-back petals, dainty and elegant. The pure white Thalia is much loved, beautiful in pots and naturalised. Shop Triandrus narcissi →
CyclamineusEarly spring
Distinctive swept-back petals like a cyclamen and a long narrow trumpet, on short stems. Early, free flowering and superb for naturalising and pots. Shop Cyclamineus daffodils →
JonquillaMid to late
Clusters of small, richly scented flowers with slender rush-like foliage. Wonderfully fragrant for pots and the front of a border in sun or light shade. Sun Disc is a charming example. Shop Jonquilla narcissi →
TazettaEarly, & indoors
Many strongly scented flowers per stem. This group includes the tender Paperwhites grown indoors for Christmas, and hardier garden sorts. Best in the mildest, sunniest spots outdoors. Shop Tazetta narcissi →
Dwarf NarcissiEarly spring
The miniatures, drawn from several divisions, perfect for pots, troughs, the rock garden and the very front of a border. The free-flowering dwarf cyclamineus types are especially recommended. Shop Dwarf narcissi →
Daffodil CollectionsSuccession
Carefully chosen mixtures that flower in succession or harmonise in colour, taking the guesswork out of building a long, balanced display from a single order, such as our Grand Mixture of Daffodils & Narcissi. Shop Daffodil Collections →
Planting & care
When and how deep should I plant daffodils?
Plant early, by the end of September or through October, well ahead of the tulips, so they root before the cold. Plant deep, with 12 to 15cm of soil over the top of the bulb, and space the larger kinds 10 to 15cm apart in well cultivated soil.
Which daffodils are best for naturalising in grass?
The cyclamineus, triandrus and poeticus daffodils. Plant where a tossed handful falls to avoid stiff rows, and remember the flowers always face the light, so plant with that in mind and they will not turn their backs on you.
Why are some daffodils so much more expensive?
It comes down to investment. Trials by the late Fred Whitsey of the RHS found the dearer, top quality bulbs gave the most flowers and multiplied far more readily, often doubling the next year, while cheap bulbs gave little increase. With daffodils, increase is what counts, so the best bulbs give the best long term value.
How do I care for daffodils after flowering?
Deadhead the spent blooms but let the foliage die back naturally over about six weeks, as it feeds next year’s bulb. Never knot or cut the leaves while green. A foliar feed after flowering helps, and never let daffodils in tubs dry out at this stage.
Hyacinths
Few bulbs offer such an intoxicating scent. We rather under-use hyacinths in Britain compared with the continent, which is a pity, for their fragrance in the spring garden is wonderful and they are as happy in a pot or bowl indoors as in the border. The difference between the types is mostly one of bulb size and habit.
Plant
Sep to Oct
Flowers
March to April
Depth & spacing
10–15cm deep, 8–10cm apart
Position
Sun or light shade
The types, and how they differ
Top Size HyacinthsLargest spikes
The largest, finest grade of bulb, giving the biggest, most densely packed flower spikes. First choice for pots, bowls and prominent positions where you want maximum impact and scent. Classics include the vivid cerise Jan Bos and the pure white Carnegie. Shop Top Size hyacinths →
Garden HyacinthsBorder & drifts
A size down from top size, with a slightly looser, more natural spike that settles beautifully into the border and is excellent value for drifts. After a year or two in the ground all hyacinths relax into this informal look. Delft Blue is a classic. Shop Garden hyacinths →
Planting & care
What is the difference between top size and garden hyacinths?
Top size are the largest bulbs and give the biggest, showiest spikes, ideal for pots and showpiece positions. Garden hyacinths are a grade smaller, more relaxed in habit and excellent value for drifts. Both are the same fine quality, simply different sizes for different jobs.
How do I plant hyacinths in the garden?
Plant in autumn, 10 to 15cm deep and about 8 to 10cm apart, in sun or light shade in well-drained soil. The heavy spikes may need a little support on exposed sites, and a handful of grit beneath each bulb helps on heavy ground. Handle them with care, as the bulbs can irritate sensitive skin.
My hyacinth spikes flop over. How do I stop that?
It is the price of a good spike: the larger and heavier the head, the more it wants to lean, and forced indoor bulbs are the worst for it because warmth draws them up soft and tall. Three tricks from us. Keep them cool and in good light while they grow, never near a radiator, which gives a shorter, sturdier stem. Slip a thin split cane or a purpose-made hyacinth support in beside the spike early, before it needs it, so the leaves hide it. And for the open border choose garden grade rather than top size, as the slightly looser spike stands far better in wind and rain. Turning a potted bowl daily also keeps the stems growing straight rather than leaning to the light.
How do I grow hyacinths indoors for Christmas?
Use prepared bulbs, potted in bulb fibre by early October with the top quarter showing, and not too firmly or they push themselves up as they root. Keep cool and dark to root well, then from around the first of December move into gentle warmth. Once the bud is well clear of the neck, bring into the light to flower, keeping them away from radiators for a longer display.
Can hyacinths be grown in water?
Yes, as they have been since they first reached Western Europe. Use a hyacinth glass with the base of the bulb just above the water, never touching it, add a little charcoal to keep the water sweet, and keep cool and dark until well rooted before introducing light and warmth.
What do I do with hyacinths after flowering?
Bulbs forced indoors are best planted out in the garden afterwards, where they flower again in future springs in their more natural, looser form. Let the foliage die back and feed once flowering is over while the leaves are still green.
Alliums
Alliums are the perfect answer to that in-between time, late spring into early summer, when the daffodils and tulips have died down and the herbaceous border is not yet in full swing. They range from the bold globes on tall leafless stems to small-flowered kinds for the rock garden, are extremely hardy, and multiply happily year on year. A few taller alliums in a drift of shorter varieties can be quite stunning.
Plant
Sep to Nov
Flowers
May to July
Depth
2–3 x the bulb
Position
Sun or light shade
The types, and how they differ
The tall, large-headed globesLate spring
The stately kinds on tall leafless stems are the signature alliums of the early summer border. Globemaster carries an immense head up to 25cm across on a stout 80cm stem strong enough to withstand the most adverse weather, while Purple Sensation is superb value for planting in generous drifts. We grow Globemaster, Sapphire, Millenium and Lisa Green among others. Shop all alliums →
Drumstick & smaller-flowered kindsEarly summer
Small, dense, egg-shaped heads that weave beautifully through grasses and perennials, flowering a little later. Excellent value planted in generous groups.
Low, broad-leaved speciesLate spring
Karataviense and Ivory Queen are the exceptions to the untidy-foliage rule, with handsome wide blue-green leaves. Low growing, so plant at the front of a border or in pots where the whole plant is on show.
Planting & care
When and where do I plant alliums?
Plant the bulbs in autumn, two to three times their depth, in full sun and well-drained, even sandy soil, though they will adapt to most soils once established and tolerate light shade. Planting in autumn gives a far wider choice and much better value than buying them in growth the following spring.
The foliage looks untidy. What can I do?
The strappy leaves of the tall kinds fade as the flowers open, so plant them among leafier neighbours, or amongst shrubs casting only light shade in May and June, that hide the lower stems while the globes rise above. The broad-leaved species are the tidy exceptions.
Are alliums good for pollinators and cutting?
Very much so. Bees adore them, the blooms are exceptionally long lasting in the garden, and they make fine cut flowers that can then be dried for winter arrangements. Keep the ground around them clear and well weeded to encourage strong, straight stems.
Crocus
Crocus bring welcome colour through the dullest weeks of the year, and with a little planning you can have them flowering in autumn and again from midwinter into spring. Plant them in generous drifts in the shrubbery, beneath trees, in grass or in the alpine garden.
Plant
Sep to Oct
Flowers
Autumn, then Jan to Mar
Depth
No more than 5cm
Position
Sun or light shade
The types, and how they differ
Winter flowering (snow crocus)Jan to Feb
The earliest of the spring crocus, smaller flowered but wonderfully free and the first to push through, sometimes through snow. The best for naturalising in grass and a vital early nectar source for bees.
Large flowering (Dutch) crocusFeb to Mar
The big, bold goblets in rich purples, golds and whites that follow the snow crocus, giving the strongest splash of colour. Superb in drifts and pots.
Mid season crocusFeb
Bridging the gap between the winter and large flowering kinds, extending the season so colour is never absent through late winter.
Planting & care
How deep should I plant crocus?
No more than 5cm. Planting too deeply is a common cause of failure to flower and prevents them naturalising, unless your soil is especially light. Plant in generous drifts and leave them to spread.
Can I have crocus in flower for Christmas?
Yes, winter flowering crocus can be brought into bloom for Christmas. In pots, keep them in a cold frame or outdoors under a thin layer of compost while the roots develop, with only minimal moisture until growth appears.
Iris & Fritillaria
Two very different groups that each bring something distinctive, the jewel-like early iris at ground level and the dramatic, statuesque fritillaries rising above the border.
Plant
Sep to Oct
Flowers
Iris Feb–Mar, Fritillaria Apr–May
Depth
Iris 7–10cm, Fritillaria 15–20cm
Position
Sun or light shade; sharp drainage
The types, and how they differ
Dwarf (reticulata) irisFeb to Mar
Exquisite, jewel-coloured iris only 10 to 15cm tall, flowering very early. Ideal for pots, the rock garden and the front of a free-draining border in sun or light shade. Plant fresh each year for the best display, as they can divide into small non-flowering bulbs.
Crown imperial (Fritillaria imperialis)Apr to May
Magnificent, towering bulbs carrying a crown of pendant bells topped with a tuft of leaves, a true focal point. Rich, well-drained soil in sun. Plant the large bulbs on their side so water cannot collect in the hollow crown and rot them.
Snake’s head fritillary (meleagris)Apr
Delicate, chequered nodding bells in plum and white, happiest naturalised in damp grass or a moist border, where they gently seed about to form a colony over the years.
Planting & care
Which iris should I plant in autumn?
The dwarf reticulata iris, for very early colour. Give them a sunny, free-draining spot and plant around 7 to 10cm deep. They resent summer wet, so a raised bed, pot or gritty soil suits them best.
How do I stop my crown imperials rotting?
Plant the large bulbs on their side with sharp drainage, 15 to 20cm deep. The hollow at the top of the bulb otherwise collects water, which is the usual cause of failure.
Muscari (Grape Hyacinths)
Few small bulbs give so much for so little. The grape hyacinths carry dense spikes of tiny, urn-shaped bells, mostly in vivid blues, and multiply freely into rivers of colour. They are superb at the front of a border, as edging, naturalised under shrubs, in pots, and underplanted beneath tulips for one of the classic spring combinations. A small flush of leaves often appears in autumn, which is quite normal.
Plant
Sep to Oct
Flowers
March to April
Depth & spacing
8cm deep, 5–8cm apart
Position
Sun or light shade, any good soil
The forms, and how they differ
The classic blue grape hyacinthMar to Apr
The familiar vivid cobalt-blue spikes, vigorous and quick to naturalise into broad ribbons of colour. The workhorse of the group and unbeatable value in drifts and beneath tulips. Our Beauty of Spring Collection is a lovely way to begin. Shop all muscari →
Two-tone & tipped formsMar to Apr
Some grape hyacinths carry a striking two-tone spike, deeper below and topped with a paler cap of bright blue. More clump-forming and restrained, excellent in pots where the detail is seen close to.
White & pale formsMar to Apr
Dainty white and soft pale-blue forms, like tiny pearls, lovely for lightening a planting of the deeper blues or for edging a path.
Planting & care
How do I plant and grow muscari?
Plant in autumn about 8cm deep and 5 to 8cm apart in any reasonably drained soil, in sun or light shade. They need little attention and will multiply year on year. If clumps grow congested and flower less, lift and divide them after flowering.
Why are my muscari leaves showing in autumn?
This is quite normal for many grape hyacinths, which send up a flush of grassy leaves in autumn that overwinters before the flowers appear in spring. Simply leave them be.
Are muscari good for pollinators?
Very much so. The early flowers are alive with bees, making muscari one of the most valuable small bulbs for an early-season wildlife garden, as well as one of the prettiest.
Rock Garden & Woodland Bulbs
This is where the real treasures hide. This section gathers many of the best and most interesting bulbs collected from around the world, most taking up only the smallest space yet bringing a wealth of character, and many are the very earliest to flower, marking the ending of winter. They are ideal for the rockery, the front of a border, pots and troughs, and for naturalising in grass and under deciduous trees. Do take time to explore them, for these are the bulbs that turn a good garden into an interesting one.
Plant
Sep to Oct
Flowers
Jan to early summer
Depth
5 – 12cm (most)
Position
Sun to light woodland shade
The full range, and how to grow each
Snowdrops (Galanthus)Jan to Feb
The herald of the year, nodding white bells over grey-green leaves. Insider tip: snowdrops establish far better planted in the green, in leaf just after flowering, than as dry bulbs, which can sulk for a year. Give them moist, humus-rich soil in the dappled shade of deciduous trees and leave them to form colonies.Shop Snowdrops (Galanthus) →
Winter Aconite (Aconite)Jan to Feb
Bright buttercup-yellow cups in a ruff of green, flowering shoulder to shoulder with the snowdrops. The dry tubers look like little dried twigs and resent drying out, so soak them overnight before planting about 5cm deep in moist, humus-rich soil under trees, where they will seed about and naturalise into golden carpets.Shop Winter Aconite (Aconite) →
ChionodoxaFeb to Mar
Glory of the snow, with sprays of starry, upward-facing flowers in clear blue, white or pink, among the very first to follow the snowdrops. Plant 5 to 8cm deep in sun or light shade; they are some of the easiest of all to naturalise, quickly seeding into generous drifts under trees and in short grass.Shop Chionodoxa →
ScillaFeb to Mar
The squills, carrying nodding bells of the most intense gentian blue, perhaps the truest blue in the spring garden. Plant 5 to 8cm deep in any good soil in sun or light shade; like chionodoxa they naturalise freely and look wonderful scattered through grass and woodland.Shop Scilla →
PuschkiniaMar
The striped squill, with delicate spikes of pale ice-blue flowers, each petal pencilled with a darker blue stripe. Easy and undemanding at about 5cm deep in sun or light shade, charming in a trough or at the front of a border where the fine detail can be seen close to.Shop Puschkinia →
Corydalis solidaMar to Apr
A little woodland gem with ferny grey-green foliage and spurred flowers in soft pink, plum and white. Plant the small tubers 5 to 8cm deep in humus-rich soil in part shade. It is an ephemeral, dying back to rest by early summer, so mark the spot and let it seed gently into a colony.Shop Corydalis solida →
Anemone blandaMar to Apr
Many-petalled daisy flowers in blue, white and pink that open flat in the sun and carpet the ground beneath shrubs. Insider tip: the hard, knobbly tubers are almost impossible to tell top from bottom, so soak them overnight and simply plant them on their side, about 5cm deep, and they will right themselves.Shop Anemone blanda →
Anemone nemorosaMar to Apr
Our native wood anemone, sheets of starry white flowers in dappled woodland. The thin rhizomes establish slowly, so plant them fresh, 3 to 5cm deep in cool, leafy, humus-rich soil, and be patient; once settled they spread into a breathtaking carpet and resent ever being allowed to dry out.Shop Anemone nemorosa →
Anemone coronariaApr to Jun
The bold De Caen and St Brigid poppy anemones, in vivid scarlet, blue, pink and white, superb for cutting. Soak the corms overnight, then plant 5cm deep in a sunny, well-drained spot. Insider tip: stagger your planting a few weeks apart for a long succession of blooms, as each batch flowers roughly three months after planting.Shop Anemone coronaria →
ErythroniumMar to Apr
The dog’s tooth violets, with elegant reflexed lily flowers above beautifully mottled leaves, for cool woodland shade. The fleshy bulbs must never be allowed to dry out, so plant them fresh and deep, 10 to 12cm, as soon as you have them, in moist, leafy soil that does not bake in summer.Shop Erythronium →
English BluebellApr to May
The true native bluebell, Hyacinthoides non-scripta, with deep violet-blue, sweetly scented flowers nodding all to one side, quite distinct from the coarser Spanish kind. Plant promptly in moist, dappled woodland shade, ideally in the green, as the bulbs dislike drying out, and leave them to naturalise.Shop English Bluebell →
Leucojum (Snowflakes)Feb to May
Like a larger, more substantial snowdrop, each pristine white bell tipped with green. They enjoy a moister soil than most and, like snowdrops, establish best moved in the green. The earlier spring snowflake and the taller summer snowflake between them stretch the season over several months.Shop Leucojum (Snowflakes) →
Ipheion uniflorumMar to Apr
The spring starflower, with pretty, faintly scented stars in soft blue or white over grassy foliage that smells gently of garlic when bruised. Plant 5cm deep in a sunny, well-drained spot, where it quietly forms generous, free-flowering clumps year on year.Shop Ipheion uniflorum →
BellevaliaApr to May
A refined cousin of the grape hyacinth for the discerning gardener, carrying slender spikes of subtle, chalky bells in smoky blues and soft creams. Plant 8cm deep in a sunny, well-drained position; understated rather than showy, and all the more elegant for it in a rockery or gravel garden.Shop Bellevalia →
HermodactylusApr
The widow iris, an intriguing thing with slim, fragrant iris flowers of soft green tipped with velvety blackish-purple. It likes a hot, sunny, sharply drained spot, ideally on the alkaline side, planted about 8cm deep, and rewards a sheltered corner with one of the most unusual flowers of spring.Shop Hermodactylus →
CamassiaMay to Jun
A real showstopper rising 90 to 120cm, with tall spikes of starry blue or white flowers alive with bees. Insider tip: unusually for a bulb it positively enjoys moisture-retentive ground, even heavy clay, in sun or part shade, which makes it the perfect choice for that damp spot or a wildflower meadow. Plant 10 to 15cm deep.Shop Camassia →
OrnithogalumApr to May
Star of Bethlehem, with heads of crisp white stars; the nodding kinds are graceful and the upright sorts wonderfully vigorous. Easy in sun or light shade at about 8cm deep. The strongest forms naturalise enthusiastically, so site them where they are free to spread rather than in a precious border.Shop Ornithogalum →
NectaroscordumMay to Jun
The Sicilian honey garlic, an allium relative carrying loose heads of pendant cream, green and dusky-maroon bells that turn smartly upright as they set seed. Statuesque and quietly beautiful at the back of a border or in light shade, planted 8 to 10cm deep; it self-seeds happily once content.Shop Nectaroscordum →
TriteleiaJun
Wiry, near-leafless stems carrying airy umbels of starry blue or white flowers in early summer, much like a brodiaea. It wants a sunny, well-drained spot, is notably drought tolerant once the foliage has died back, and makes a long-lasting and unusual cut flower. Plant about 8cm deep.Shop Triteleia →
Dwarf GladiolusMay to Jun
Far daintier than the big border gladioli, these include the hardy Byzantine gladiolus, with elegant wands of rich magenta, and the nanus types in soft pastels. Plant 8 to 10cm deep in a sunny, free-draining spot; in milder gardens the Byzantine kind will naturalise into lovely informal drifts.Shop Dwarf Gladiolus →
IxiaJun
The African corn lily, with very slender, wiry stems topped by sprays of vivid star-shaped flowers, often with a dark contrasting eye, that open wide in sun. Insider tip: it is only half-hardy, so give it the hottest, sharpest-drained spot you have and a winter mulch, or simply grow it in a pot you can keep frost-free.Shop Ixia →
OxalisSpring to summer
Pretty, clover-like leaves and dainty funnel flowers that furl and unfurl with the sun, ideal in pots, troughs and at the very front of a sunny border. Choose the well-behaved ornamental kinds such as adenophylla and the glowing ‘Golden Cape’, plant about 5cm deep in gritty, free-draining soil, and they will form neat, generous cushions.Shop Oxalis →
SaxifragaApr to May
The meadow saxifrage in its lovely double form, ‘Fair Maids of France’, with sprays of pure white pompom flowers over a neat rosette. Plant the small bulbils about 5cm deep in gritty, humus-rich soil in sun or part shade; it appreciates moisture in spring and a drier rest once the foliage dies down.Shop Saxifraga →
Arum italicumFoliage autumn to spring
Grown above all for its handsome, arrow-shaped leaves, marbled and veined in cream, which emerge in autumn and shine through the whole winter when little else does, followed by spikes of red berries. Plant in part shade in humus-rich soil; a brilliant foliage foil among hellebores and snowdrops. The berries are poisonous, so site with care.Shop Arum italicum →
Madonna Lily (Lilium candidum)Jun to Jul
The ancient, pure white, intensely fragrant Madonna lily. Insider tip: it breaks every lily rule, being one of the very few planted in autumn and almost on the surface, with barely 2 to 3cm of soil over the bulb, where most lilies want deep planting. It then sends up a rosette of leaves to overwinter. Give it a sunny, well-drained spot and leave it undisturbed.Shop Madonna Lily (Lilium candidum) →
Scilla peruvianaMay to Jun
Despite its name a Mediterranean plant, the Portuguese squill, carrying a spectacular broad cone packed with dozens of steel-blue stars. Plant shallowly with the nose of the big bulb at the surface in a hot, sheltered, sharply drained spot, or grow it in a pot; on the tender side, so it rewards a sun-baked corner.Shop Scilla peruviana →
TecophilaeaMar to Apr
The Chilean blue crocus, one of the most coveted of all bulbs, with flowers of an electric, gentian-blue found almost nowhere else in nature. It is precious and not cheap, so treat it as a treasure: a deep pot of very gritty compost in an alpine house or cold frame, kept dry in summer and protected from winter wet, suits it best.Shop Tecophilaea →
Planting & care
What is the best way to plant these small bulbs?
Plant them generously and informally; a few of each looks mean, while a drift of fifty looks magical, and they are inexpensive enough to do it. Most want only 5 to 8cm of soil over them in any free-draining ground. The single most useful habit is to get them in promptly, as small bulbs dry out far faster than big ones on a shelf.
Which need planting “in the green” or planting fresh?
Insider knowledge: snowdrops, winter aconites, snowflakes, wood anemones, erythroniums and English bluebells all resent being dried out and stored. They establish far better planted fresh and without delay, or moved in the green, in leaf, rather than bought as dry bulbs in spring. Plant them the moment they arrive and water them in.
Which are best for naturalising, and which for a choice spot?
For sweeps that spread on their own: snowdrops, aconites, chionodoxa, scilla, anemone blanda and bluebells. For a special, sharply drained pot or alpine spot where you can dote on them: tecophilaea, scilla peruviana, ixia and hermodactylus. The first group asks to be left alone; the second rewards a little fussing.
Autumn Flowering Bulbs
Though we largely plan for spring, the autumn garden should not be overlooked. A handful of bulbs flower in autumn itself, attractive and fascinating in their own right and providing useful colour as the perennials die back. These want planting as soon as you receive them. Please note that the autumn-flowering cyclamen and sternbergia are listed in the CITES section of our catalogue and website.
Plant
On arrival, late summer
Flowers
September to October
Depth
Varies, 5–10cm
Position
Mostly sheltered, sunny
The bulbs to choose, and how to grow them
Colchicum (autumn crocus, naked ladies)Sep to Oct
Large goblet flowers that rise leafless from bare earth, the leaves following in spring, hence their old name. Plant 8 to 10cm deep in moisture-retentive, fertile soil in a sheltered spot with afternoon sun. They will even flower dry on a windowsill if not yet planted; set them in the garden once the flowers are over. Despite the common name they are not a true crocus.
Hardy cyclamenAutumn to winter
Forming a luxurious carpet of marbled foliage studded with dainty, weather-resistant blooms, wonderful in woodland or shrubbery and in containers. Plant in a dampish spot with plenty of leaf mould and top-dress with the same when dormant; they self-seed freely and are completely hardy. (Listed under CITES.)
Nerine sarniensis (Guernsey lily)October
Flowering in early October, and despite the name hailing from Southern Africa. Give them a dry, sunny position with the neck of the bulb at the surface; planted this year they flower next autumn, and in severe weather they appreciate protection with straw or bracken.
Sternbergia lutea (autumn daffodil)Sep to Oct
Deep golden-yellow goblets resembling a cross between a crocus and a small daffodil, with bright fresh foliage. Quite expensive and not always easy to find, but a true investment, for even a few are extremely floriferous and multiply readily in a hot, sunny, sharply drained spot. (Listed under CITES.)
Christmas Flowering Bulbs
Growing your own bulbs to flower for Christmas is one of the most rewarding things in the gardening year, and the quality is far superior to anything bought ready-grown. It may sound daunting but is quite straightforward once a few basic principles are followed, and the results never fail to impress family and friends. They make wonderful gifts too.
Start
Late Sep to early Oct
Flowers
December
Grow in
Bulb fibre, pebbles or water
Keep
Cool & dark to root, then warm
The bulbs to choose
Prepared hyacinthsPot by early Oct
The mainstay of the Christmas bowl, filling a room with scent. Pot in bulb fibre by early October, root cool and dark, then force gently from the first of December. Keep all the bulbs in a bowl at the same stage so they flower together.
Paperwhite narcissiEasy & quick
Wonderfully easy and fragrant, especially grown on pebbles. Set the stones almost up to the neck of the bulb so it is well anchored, with the water just below the base. No darkness period is needed; they romp away in the light.
Amaryllis (Hippeastrum)Dramatic
The most dramatic of the festive bulbs, with huge trumpet flowers on a stout stem. Our bulbs are a generous size, giving a display far superior to those bought elsewhere. Pot with the top third proud of the compost, keep warm, and turn the pot regularly so the stem grows straight.
Lily of the valley & winter crocusCharming extras
Our lily of the valley, kept in ice from the previous spring and planted in late November, makes remarkable growth to flower for Christmas, and winter flowering crocus add colour and interest through the dull days.
Planting & care
When should I start my Christmas bulbs?
Late September into October. Pot prepared hyacinths by early October, keep them cool and dark to root well, then begin gentle forcing from around the first of December. Do not rush them into warmth, as most need a proper cool spell to develop their roots first.
Why are prepared Christmas hyacinths different?
They are lifted early and given continuous treatment in heat and humidity controlled chambers so the flower develops early inside the bulb. This is not finished until early September, so any bulbs offered before then should be avoided.
Can I grow Christmas bulbs in water?
Yes. Use only top size bulbs, keep the base just above the water rather than in it, add a little charcoal to keep the water sweet, and root them cool and dark before bringing them slowly into light and warmth.
Pricing & Delivery
We grow and select the finest bulbs in the world, the very same stock as our Gold Medal Chelsea exhibits, and yet we work hard to stay genuinely competitive on price. The more you order, the more you save, with discounts applied automatically to your total.
Spend & Save, applied to your whole order
£125 – £249
5%You save
£250 – £499
10%You save
£500 – £999
15%You save
£1,000+
20%You save
Free UK delivery on all orders over £100. Bloms Private Members enjoy free postage on every order, all year.
Do you guarantee your bulbs will flower?
We do, without quibble. Every bulb we sell is guaranteed to flower in its first year. A healthy bulb arrives with that first flower already formed inside it, so it is a promise nature largely makes for us, but if any bulb fails to flower we will gladly replace it or refund you. Simply get in touch.
How does the Spend & Save discount work?
The more you spend in a single order, the larger the discount on your whole total: 5% from £125, 10% from £250, 15% from £500 and 20% once you reach £1,000. It is applied automatically at checkout, so it pays to gather your bulbs into one order, and to club together with friends or neighbours.
Do you offer free delivery?
Yes, free UK delivery on all orders over £100. Bloms Private Members receive free postage on every order regardless of value, all year round.
Are your bulbs the same quality as your Chelsea displays?
They are. Every bulb we send you comes from the very same stock as the bulbs in our award winning Chelsea exhibits, which have earned us 70 Gold Medals since 1948. And we stand behind every one: each bulb is guaranteed to flower in its first year, or we will replace it or refund you.
Should I order now even if I am not ready to plant?
Yes. Stocks of the best varieties are limited and the garden waits for no one, so order early to avoid disappointment. Stored somewhere cool, dry and airy, your bulbs will be perfectly happy to wait until you are.
Do you have a membership scheme?
We do. Bloms Private Membership gives you free postage on every order for the year. Simply enter your membership number at checkout, or join for a small annual fee that most members recover in a single order.
Planting & Flowering Calendar
A quick reference for the autumn-planted bulbs. Times are a guide for a typical British season and will shift a little with your local climate and the weather of the year.
View the full planting & flowering calendar
| Bulb | Plant | Flowers | Depth |
|---|---|---|---|
| Daffodils | Sep – Oct | Feb – May | 12 – 15cm |
| Crocus | Sep – Oct | Jan – Mar | 5cm |
| Hyacinths | Sep – Oct | Mar – Apr | 10 – 15cm |
| Muscari | Sep – Oct | Mar – Apr | 8cm |
| Dwarf Iris | Sep – Oct | Feb – Mar | 7 – 10cm |
| Scilla & Anemone blanda | Sep – Oct | Feb – Apr | 5 – 8cm |
| Snowdrops & Aconites | Sep – Oct | Jan – Feb | 8 – 10cm |
| Fritillaria | Sep – Oct | Apr – May | 15 – 20cm |
| Camassia | Sep – Nov | May – Jun | 10 – 15cm |
| Alliums | Sep – Nov | May – Jul | 2 – 3 x bulb |
| Tulips | Nov – Dec | Mar – May | 10 – 15cm |
| Colchicum & autumn crocus | On arrival | Sep – Oct | 8 – 10cm / 5cm |
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Enjoy your garden,
Paul Blom
Bloms Bulbs · Growers since 1860 · 70 Chelsea Gold Medals
Need a hand choosing? Talk to our bulb specialists on 01234 709099